What a gorgeous tobacco scent this is! That was my first thought when I applied Memento to my skin as its sweet smokiness curled toward my nose. I quickly emailed Mandy Aftel, creator of Memento, and shared my quick affection for her luscious tobacco perfume. The response I got was quite unexpected. There’s no tobacco in Memento.
Mandy did however, feature an enticingly rich antique clove on a base of sweet and sultry tonka beans that creates the impression of a pipe freshly packed with aged tobacco. Along with the richly redolent clove essence, nutmeg and cinnamon enhance Memento’s spicy character, but not in a culinary sense. These spices take on a very sensual, smoldering temperament that leads you away from the kitchen and to a comfy couch for some nuzzling.
Rose and jasmine sambac are listed in the heartnotes, and their presence provides a full, round quality to the clove/tonka duo. Specifically, rose lends its powdery softness and jasmine sambac bestows its piquant petals upon the inherently aromatic aforementioned spices. But rather than shift Memento into the floral perfume category, rose and jasmine augment the sweet “tobacco”, making it even more sumptuous and distinct.
Memento was originally created for “The Alchemy of Taste and Smell” event in NYC this past November. Mandy’s culinary aromatics and perfumes were used in the evening’s dishes, but the focus was the intentional pairing of select Aftelier perfumes with specific dishes. Memento was experienced with dessert, a cinnamon smoked apple with buttermilk and hazelnut. In this moment as the drydown becomes a touch sweeter, and even more alluring, all I can think about is getting my hands on that dessert while wearing this alluring tobacco perfume.
Memento is available at Aftelier.com, $45 for a 2ml mini flask.
Image: “Ceci n’est pas une pipe” by René Magritte
Posted by ~Trish
thefloraesthetic.com 
This sounds utterly gorgeous and something I would clearly love. Thank you for the review! I often smell notes that are not technically there, but that is part of the true mystery of perfume and scent.
Yes, it’s all a part of the allure indeed! Something tells me you would love Memento 😉
~T
You had me at Tonka Bean. Seriously, I’m a fan of Tonka Bean. I’m going to try this one. Thanks for the review. : )
Tonka is a fave of mine too Susan. Smooth and sweet, but never overbearing…it’s lovely!
XOXO
Trish
Dear Trish
Thank you for the beautifully written review an I love the picture from Magritte. The perfume has choya in it — which is roasted seashells. That is another reason for the “faux tabac”
xoxo
mandy
I am so glad you enjoyed reading the review Mandy, thank you so much for commenting. There’s choya in Tango as well right? Its smokiness takes on such a different character in that perfume as compared to Memento. I think it speaks to your alchemical talents my dear 😉
Hugs,
Trish
Choya? This is a new note to me, intriguing.
Maybe choya will become the new oud? 😉
Haha, if only!
I am an open fan of tobacco scents, something which is a bit amusing in light of my decided negative attitude toward tobacco and its smoke in other forms, first or second hand. Therefore, I am grateful for the chance to hear your impressions of this Aftelier.
I wonder if you could locate it within a tobacco chart…for example, it sounds like it could be pleasantly dense, but in a different way from SSS Tabac Aurea, or (unsniffed by me) Soivhle Meerschaum?
SS,
“Pleasantly dense” is a great way to describe Memento! I have not tried SSS Tabac Aurea. I find Memento different from Soivohle Meerschaum. Meerschaum is very leathery, and also sharper and not quite as sweet. I think Meerschaum must have some labdanum in its blend which Memento does not (at least I don’t smell it).
Both are beautiful, and I’d say go for Meerschaum if you like leathery tabac and Memento if you like a sweeter, smoother tabac 🙂
~T
Dear Trish
Yes, your remembered correctly — and I am so impressed! There is choya in Tango and it really requires a very light hand to not overpower the other notes. With moment I was looking for a “roasted cinnamon” note.
xo
mandy
I didn’t realize that choya=roasted seashells as I was writing this review, and now it makes perfect sense! When I was writing my Tango review, the image of roasting seashells was seared onto my imagination, I will never forget that! 🙂
Oh, and Mandy, the antique clove in Memento is exquisite! I am so in love with it.
~T